Took a short hike around Rockwell Lake after dinner:

Back out on the bikes today for a 50-odd mile ride to the lodge at Rockwell Lake. And as I’m sure Roger would agree, ’twas an odd ride indeed. First off, it was unseasonably cool – in the mid-60s – and fairly cloudy and breezy for much of the day. Although generally those are delightful conditions, I regretted having sent my windbreaker back with Rachael when she left Minneapolis – may have to get it back from her in Pittsburgh!

The countryside was also very different from what we’ve seen of late. Lots of young growth forestland, not much agriculture beyond tree farms and the occasional cornfield, and a number of small-scale resortish areas around some wee lakes but virtually no sign of anyone.

For the most part, the roads were good and lightly traveled, but the ACA map warned that dirt rounds abound and sure enough we found ourselves on one before too long. We were too far along to turn back but fortunately the recent rain did not create too much of a problem.

I did get snarled at by a startled raccoon, and there were some pleasant brooks along the way:

But because of a plethora of signs such as this one:

the ride mostly brought Woody Guthrie to mind (as other days have but in a different context):
“As I went walking I saw a sign there

And on the sign it said ‘No Trespassing.’

But on the other side it didn’t say nothing,

That side was made for you and me.”

Toward the end of the ride in the tiny town of Luther, Roger and I met Bob and Kris, who were on a sag-supported ACA ride from Washington State to Maine.

Take a good look Rachael – that could be our future! Bob turned 72 somewhere out there on the ride.

Now we are awaiting dinner at an inviting lodge out in the woods by a lake. So not too bad, eh?

Oh, and I almost forgot, I biked in with this wine for our dinner – I guess getting rid of all my cool weather clothing had some benefit after all!

Nice long relaxing day yesterday after we switched motels. We ended up in a very comfortable lakeside place with a balcony shielded from the rain.

After the storm passed through, we wandered out to the lighthouse:

Later we saw the Smokey Badger pulling into harbor:

and then we saw it heading back to Manitowoc (it was a very relaxing day!):

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Nice sunset over the lake:

The End.

[Today’s rain delay – we’re holed up in Ludington for a second day – gives me the time and opportunity to put up some out of sequence posts…]

The SS Badger was not set to sail until 2 pm so we had a free morning, and I arranged to meet Matt Schliesman, the executive director for the Capitol Civic Centre, an 1100-seat restored vaudeville house smack downtown in Manitowoc, so he could show me around the space.

I had met Matt the previous day as he was taking a meeting with the head of his board at the Courthouse Pub. Although a Wisconsin native, Matt had only recently returned to the Badger State after a long voluntary exile to LA. Looking to make some changes in his life, he jumped at the opportunity to take the Capitol Civic Centre through a million dollar fundraising campaign and restoration that should help chart a new future for the facility and the myriad of arts organizations it hosts and serves.

It seems like the board made an excellent choice in hiring Matt as he radiates an energy and enthusiasm that matches his commitment to promoting the performing arts in his newly adopted hometown. For all of you of a certain age and inclination, David Cassidy is coming to town next month…

I wish Matt and the organization well; I’d love to come back in a few years to see all the changes that have been made. Biking around Wisconsin was so enjoyable that I already have a plan to someday fly into Milwaukee and bike over to Madison and Taliesen and who knows where else – maybe Manitowoc!

I wandered around the town some more to take in the old buildings and the unfortunate industrial decline. I don’t know how towns such as Manitowoc recreate themselves – the loss of Mirro some years back and of the Budweiser operation more recently punch holes in the economic fabric that coffee shops and bike stores, as vital as they are, just can’t fill.

The old Mirro plant shadows the western edge of downtown:

The sale of Budweiser to a Dutch (?) group led to the closing of this facility at the east end of downtown:

Perhaps, as it often has, immigration will provide the impetus for some of the way forward. There is a decent-sized Hmong community – particularly in evidence among the vendors at the farmers’ market (good tomatoes finally!) and Matt says the Hispanic population is growing as well. A Serbian woman opened a wine and cheese shop downtown – much appreciated, thanks!

And here is the obligatory bank turned into a bar pic:

As I was walking back to the motel, I was lucky enough to see the drawbridge go up and so waited to see what imposing vessel was headed out to the great lake:

Well, perhaps not so much…

Though the SS Badger is a floating furnace from another era, its economic impact on the towns it serves is readily apparent (it does not run year round):

Hopefully it too can make the transition into a brighter future.

Thy name is Kelly…

Despite repeated discussions over the phone and in person concerning the contingency that the thunderstorm forecasted for Thursday would keep us holed up at the Nader motor lodge for another night, Kelly went ahead and booked our room out from under us with no warning.

So here we sit, looking out at the pouring down rain and contemplating a “Lady Godiva” ride down to another motel as the storm is expected to last for several hours yet.

On a brighter note, I made breakfast tacos this morning: